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Archive for the ‘Truck Insurance’ Category

it is expensive as you are driving a commercial vehicle and the liability limits on these coverages are at the lowest, $750,000 and up. The rate is based on where you run (local or long distance), your record, where you are located & run. It is hard to give a price, however, I’d say you can look at over $5,000.00 a year or more.

Looking to get the best rate possible and would like recommendations and suggestions on getting the best rate

Not enough information. Are you long haul trucking? Bobtail? Deadhead?? Which state are you in? How far do you go?

Not all companies write in all states. Depending on the type of "independent contracting" you do (trucking? Or are you an electrician?), some companies may or may not be willing to write you.

Bottom line -you have to buy commercial Insurance, through an agent or company licensed to do business in your state. Even Progressive won’t sell a commercial policy on line. So go to your local agent for quotes.

Pssst – Want To Know A Secret That Banks and Car Insurance Companies Don’t Share With You

Every single driver in the U.S. is required to have Car Insurance. And most of us drive around confident that we have adequate coverage to protect us should we ever be involved in an accident.

Yet, almost 97% of all drivers are not adequately protected….and don’t even know it. Here’s what I mean.

Let’s say you’re involved in an accident and it’s serious enough that the car is considered a “total loss” by your Insurance Company. Or, maybe your vehicle gets stolen. A few weeks later, you get a check from your Insurance Company.

When you look at the amount, you’re shocked. It’s thousands less than what you owe on your car. How can that be, you ask?

Well, like most, your policy has this short clause buried somewhere in all that legalese -

“In the event of a total loss, the policy holder will receive the actual cash value of the vehicle, minus any deductible.”

Did you catch the 3, very important words in that clause? The three words are – “actual cash value.”

Actual Cash Value means you’re going to get a get a check for….

“What it’s worth” not “What you owe.”

Isn’t that a nasty little surprise.

And like most, you owe quite a bit more than what the car or truck is worth. What would you owe your Bank or Credit Union if your car was totaled today?

So, how do you avoid this situation?

Well, when you buy a new or used vehicle, add a “rider” to your policy or purchase a separate “rider.”

If you have Homeowners or Rental insurance, a “rider” might sound familiar. For a homeowner’s policy, if you own expensive items, like fine jewelry, you need to add a rider to your policy. The reason – Insurance Companies won’t cover those types of items as part of a regular insurance policy.

So, you pay an extra $5 or $6 a month to have those items fully covered by the “rider.”

If anything ever happens to the jewelry, it gets replaced.

A rider for your car or truck is called GAP Insurance or GAP Protection. It’s just like the rider for your Home – except it’s only for cars, vans, trucks or suv’s.

It covers “What You Owe”, not “What its worth.”

It doesn’t matter what the reason is – if it’s ever totaled due to theft, fire, accident, flood, tornado, vandalism, hurricane, it’s covered – and paid-in-full!

You can protect yourself four different ways.

1. Put at least 20%-30% down on any new or used car purchase to erase any gap;

2. Purchase a “Rider” – AKA GAP Insurance from your Car Insurance Company or Bank;

3. Purchase Gap Insurance from another Insurance Company;

4. Buy Gap Insurance from the Dealership you’re buying at.

Any one of these options is great way to protect yourself. Whether you’re getting ready to purchase a new car or truck, or purchased a vehicle in the last 12 months, make sure the “gap” between what your vehicle is worth and what you owe is covered.

Tom O’leary
http://www.articlesbase.com/insurance-articles/pssst-want-to-know-a-secret-that-banks-and-car-insurance-companies-dont-share-with-you-133494.html